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Sept. 9, 2005
Eat, relax on the waterfront
The Barnetts' Watermark is a new benchmark in al fresco dining
LEANNE JACOBSEN
Vancouver's newest addition to waterfront dining, the Watermark
on Kits Beach, is making a run at the title of best deck/patio dining
experience in Vancouver; a city
noted for fine cuisine served al fresco. The owners, Jewish community
members the Barnett family, have created a décor that is
minimalist yet elegant, allowing for panoramic views of English
Bay and the North Shore mountains.
The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner, seven days a week.
A recent visit showed that the lunch menu is well rounded, with
an emphasis on seafood. We ordered the rock salt garlic chili prawns
($8.95), but there are also many starters such as tempura chili
smelts with balachaung plum dipping sauce ($6.95), vegetarian gyoza
($6.50) and fire-roasted chicken skewers ($8.25) that cater to more
"kosher" tastes.
For the main course, I had the Watermark salad; an interesting combination
of organic lettuces, avocado, mango, spiced pumpkin seeds, goat
cheese and watermelon cubes, dressed with a guava vinaigrette ($11.95).
My guest ordered the featured halibut, which had been marinated
in a Thai spice blend, then accented with a garlic and ginger oil.
It was moist, flavorful and nicely presented.
Other entrées included a lemon thyme chicken linguine ($14.75),
seared rare albacore tuna with black and white sesame seed crust
($15.95) and a beef burger made with kobe beef ($11.95). The basic
dessert menu features cheesecake and a variety of ice creams.
The extensive wine list does not disappoint, with a well-balanced
selection of both old and new world labels, priced for most budgets
and with tasting notes provided for each varietal. Some of the highlights
are a Woodward Canyon cabernet, Blasted Church rosé and the
Kistler "les Noisetiers" Chardonnay.
My one complaint was that the entrance to the restaurant was not
immediately apparent. Perhaps some demarcation of the area in front
of the elevator, plus an awning over the elevator door would help.
All in all, I give it a 3.5 out of five on the Nosh Meter: it's
a place at which to show off our city to guests and it offers a
dining experience that is affordable and enjoyable.
Leanne Jacobsen is a freelance writer and the director
of sales/marketing at the Jewish Independent. This is the
first in an occasional restaurant review series.
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