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November 14, 2003
Go kosher car camping
Heading out with kids: to the Kootenays and beyond!
LAURI DONAHUE SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH BULLETIN
Three kids, 3,000 kilometres.... Packed tightly into our minivan,
we set off on our epic summer adventure: 11 days of family car camping
– to the Kootenays and beyond!
We arrived at our first stop, near Penticton, as night was falling.
Our campground, which had looked lovely on the Internet with its
peach orchard and lake view, turned out to be somewhat less lovely
in person: the view was monopolized by a solid wall of RVs, and
some of the peaches were turning brown and slimy underfoot. Our
campsite wasn't much bigger than the space to park the van, but
at least it was conveniently located next to the playground and
washhouse. When we finally got the tent set up, inflated the air
mattresses, broke the lantern and tried to sleep with the sound
of traffic rushing past on Highway 97, it was about as rustic as
the parking lot at Zellers.
Things improved the next morning, starting with fresh-picked-peach
pancakes for breakfast and a swim in Skaha Lake and, after another
long day of driving, we arrived at Wasa Lake Provincial Park, 40
kilometres north of Cranbrook. From the wooded campground it was
short stroll to the lake itself, advertised as having the warmest
water in the Kootenays. A shady lakeside adventure playground was
an added bonus.
Wasa Lake was our base camp for expeditions to nearby attractions.
In Cranbrook, we took a guided tour of the Canadian Museum of Rail
Travel, climbing in and out of vintage rail cars with their cozy
sleepers, spacious private compartments and elegant dining cars
adorned with inlaid mahogany and stained glass.
The train theme continued at Fort Steele Heritage Town, north of
Cranbrook, with a 25-minute steam-powered ride through Rocky Mountain
and Kootenay River views, with free ice cream cones awarded to those
up-to-speed on their train trivia. The town of Fort Steele dates
back to an 1864 gold rush settlement, and has been restored as a
living history museum with 57 buildings and dozens of daily street
drama performances and demonstrations of grain grinding, leatherworking,
tin smithing and other heritage trades.
Not being quite traditional enough to spend Shabbat in a tent, we
proceeded to Banff, where we'd booked a family room at the local
youth hostel, which resembles an upscale ski lodge. Our room had
a private washroom with a shower just next door and three bunk beds
(with doubles on the bottom), including one in a loft that was promptly
claimed by our seven-year-old.
We cooked Shabbat dinner in the hostel's community kitchen, contending
with Swedish backpackers for control of the oven so that our challah
would be ready in time and sharing that same challah with visitors
from Australia and the United States.
We'd pre-ordered (and pre-paid for) our seudah shlishit (third
Shabbat meal) from Banff's only vegetarian restaurant. The proprietor,
born and trained in Switzerland, speaks six languages. Hebrew is
not among them, but he can manage a "Shalom" at the sight
of a kippah. Our after-dinner entertainment was free Shakespeare
in the park, with, thankfully, free bug spray to keep off the mosquitoes.
After a pleasant weekend in Banff, including a ride on the famous
gondola, we went north, stopping in Lake Louise for a stroll around
the ice-blue waters, then taking in the spectacular scenery of the
Ice Fields Parkway. We hiked up to the Athabasca Glacier, passing
signs that marked the extent of the ice in previous years and ominous
warnings about the dire fates of people who had strayed from the
path.
After a stop in Jasper, we headed west toward Mount Robson, at 3,954
metres the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies, and explored the
upper reaches of the Fraser on a rafting trip. Both gentle family
floats and white water adventures take place at the same time, allowing
all members of the family to travel at their own pace.
Then it was time to head for home, with stops at Halcyon Hot Springs
and the funky, historic town of Nelson with its perfect lakeside
playground and beach.
Three kids, 3,000 kilometres... We not only survived, we enjoyed!
Lauri Donahue is an award-winning playwright and the rebbetzin
of Beth Tikvah congregation in Richmond.
If you decide to go....
Wasa Lake Provincial Park
Call 800-689-9025 or 604-689-9025 in Greater Vancouver
or visit http://wlapwww.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/wasalake.htm.
Campsites range from $9 to $22.
The Canadian Museum of Rail Travel
1 Van Horne Street North, Cranbrook, B.C. Call 250-489-3918 or visit
http://www.trainsdeluxe.com.
Scheduled guided tours only. A one-hour family tour is $18.95.
Fort Steele Heritage Town
Off highway 93/95 between Cranbrook and Wasa Lake, B.C. Call 250-426-7352
or visit http://www.fortsteele.bc.ca/visitor/main/index.asp.
Family admission is $17-$19.25. The steam railway is $6/adult, $3/student,
$2/child (six-12).
Banff National Park
Http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/ab/banff/index_e.asp.
Family admission is $14 per day. The Banff Alpine Centre Hostel
is located at 801 Coyote Dr. (on Tunnel Mountain Road), Banff, Alta.
Call 403-670-7580 or visit http://www.hihostels.ca/hostels/Alberta/SouthernAlbertaRegion/HI-BanffAlpineCentre/Hostels/index.html.
Rooms are $87-$107.
Sunfood Café
Located in Sundance Mall, 2nd level, 215 Banff Ave., Banff, Alta.
Call 403-760-3933 or visit http://www.sunfoodcafe.com.
Vegetarian fare. Be sure to try the chocolate mousse.
Banff Gondola
Http://
www.banffgondola.com. Tickets are $21.50/adult, $10.75/child.
Ice Fields Parkway
Http://www.canadianrockies.net/icepwy.html.
Mount Robson Provincial Park
Http://wlapwww.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/mtrobson.htm.
Mount Robson Whitewater Rafting Co.
Located in Valemount, B.C. Call 888-566-7238 or visit http://www.mountrobsonwhitewater.com.
Free overnight camping available with the purchase of a rafting
trip.
Halcyon Hot Springs Resort
Located in Nakusp, B.C. Call 888-689-4699 or visit http://www.halcyon-hotsprings.com.
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