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May 9, 2008
Activists or fashion victims?
Most Westerners wearing a keffiyeh have no idea of its history.
EVA COHEN
You may have noticed on the streets recently a particularly intriguing and, in some cases insulting, piece of clothing. In the last couple of years, the presence of the "fashion keffiyah" has grown considerably around the world. This is happening most specifically with young people, in large numbers on campuses, but the question is: What is the keffiyeh and how should it be viewed?
The keffiyeh is a Middle Eastern scarf that has quite a diverse and extensive history. It is also called a yashmag, ghutra or hatta and is a traditional headdress of Arab men. It varies between regions, but generally is made of a square of cloth, usually cotton, folded and wrapped in various styles around the head. It began as a practical item, commonly found in desert areas to provide protection from the sun, and for occasional use in protecting the mouth and eyes from blown dust and sand. Often, the keffiyeh is held in place by a rope circlet, called an agal. Amid the hot political climate in the Middle East, the scarf has taken on more meaning in recent decades.
In the 1960s, the keffiyeh became a symbol of Palestinian nationalism and the trademark of their controversial leader, Yasser Arafat; he was rarely seen in any other headdress. His was black and white and arranged specifically so that the scarf draped over his right shoulder. He arranged it in the shape of a triangle, so as to resemble the shape of "Palestine" – which included the Israeli lands. The black and white scarf became even more a symbol of, not necessarily Palestinian nationalism, but of Palestinian violence, when Leila Khaled, a female terrorist was photographed after the hijacking of TWA Flight 840 and the Dawson's Field hijackings. In many of these photographs, she wore the keffiyeh in the style of a Muslim woman's hijab, wrapped around the head and shoulders. The use of the keffiyeh as a hijab remains very uncommon and, to the extent it exists, is assumed to be a personal political statement.
For many, the wearing of the keffiyeh has strictly meant solidarity with the Palestinian people. This in itself is no problem; Palestinians most definitely have a right to self-determination and nationalism. However, the scarves are usually not worn as a peaceful statement and many sporting the keffiyeh as a sign of activism, support the terrorist actions of factions such as Hamas.
While the styles worn in the West by protesters vary, the typical one is the black and white. It is usually worn on top of an already put together outfit, worn like a neckerchief. With the clear transformation into a political statement, the keffiyeh is now widely worn, especially around campuses.
The presence of "wartime" clothing, such as khaki or camouflage, has become common in Western culture and is usually done by people who don't think about the symbolic value of what they buy. The black and white scarf is seen quite often and its mainstream appearance back in the 1980s coincided with the first intifada. In the last couple of years though, it has also been released in trendy colors by mainstream stores: Urban Outfitters carried the item, but removed it following public demand and controversy.
If someone is ignorant to the item's political value, is it a success for the radical Palestinian movement? The answer in the end is "no." It's safe to assume that the majority of people who wear a keffiyeh do not know its significance. When actually approached on campus, many students admit they have a keffiyeh and were not aware of its meaning.
Rosie Thompson, a student in England, while wearing a pashmina, said she has a keffiyeh at home, which she would just as likely choose to wear as any other scarf. When told of the politics behind the scarf, she became extremely apologetic.
"Wow, I'm so sorry, I didn't know," said Thompson. "I bought it because it's in fashion."
Although this does not represent all students, it's indicative of the mainstream. Since 2007, there have even been scarves released with Jewish icons, in order to combat the trend – or, more likely, just to cash in on it.
Eva Cohen is a Canadian freelance writer, who is currently in England.
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