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June 10, 2005

Bucolic harbor in sun

Gibsons is a stunning gateway to Sunshine Coast.
BAILA LAZARUS

It seems everyone in Gibsons knows each other by their first name and every store has a large dog snoozing in the doorway. It's a comfortable setting and, no doubt, one of the reasons this little area of the Sunshine Coast is attracting so many people from Canada and the United States. Just one hour from downtown Vancouver and with (still) reasonably priced property, architects, designers, tax consultants and artists, among others, are settling down there to enjoy life in a bucolic setting.

A short drive and ferry ride from Vancouver, the town of Gibsons is the gateway to the Sunshine Coast, often hosting tourists for a day of shopping or an overnight stay before they head up to Roberts Creek, Smuggler's Cove or Ruby Lake. Despite its small size (the downtown area can be explored entirely on foot), the lower part of Gibsons, known as Gibsons Landing, packs in dozens of restaurants, clothing stores, craft shops and art galleries, as well as Molly's Reach restaurant, made famous on the TV series The Beachcombers.

Behind the restaurant, Molly's Lane offers an eclectic collection of shops that can keep you browsing for hours. And if you need more than a day to really soak in the ambiance, choose from hundreds of bed and breakfasts that are sprouting faster than dandelions after a good rain. These are not just your usual single room, shared bathroom in a big house deal. Looking more like miniature hotels, B&Bs now offer full suites with refrigerators, fireplaces and even soaker tubs, not to mention separate entrances.

Any shopping tour should start in Molly's Lane. Here, Whimsy offers a large collection of tablecloths, garden decorations, wall hangings, candles, jewelry and other gifts. Among the more unique are ceramic piggy banks in the form of wild animals and chalk message boards on ceramic cows and sheep.

Beside Whimsy, a co-operative of stores offers everything from cards and vases to flip-flops and yarn, to kids' clothing and beads. You can even find a large selection of Sniffs tissue papers that were a big seller at Adina Priel's in Vancouver. One block behind the lane, on Gower Point Road, you'll find Peggy Sue. Mostly a children's store, but carrying items for adults as well, Peggy Sue has ceramic bathroom accessories, kids' toys and fancy girls' dresses, along with crafts and jewelry from more than 60 local artists. Pick up a hand-carved, wood-covered diary, locally made stained glass and even rhinestone pet collars.

For your conscientious purchases, cross the street to Gaia's Fair Trade, a store that boasts crafts from around the world – you can pick up clothing, rainsticks, masks and even wrapping paper. For the eclectic side of window shopping, pop into the Daffodowndilly Gallery just a block away on Marine Drive. Here you can pick up an antique sulky harness (for the equestrian who has everything), select from a huge doll collection or read a copy of The World Congress on the Law of Time and Judgment Day Tribunal. (Personally, I think the movie was better.) If you're looking for examples of Northwest Coast art, including First Nations work, head up Gibsons Way/Highway 1 to Gift of the Eagle gallery. Gorgeous masks, pottery, metal work, clothing and blankets fill this beautiful framing and art store.

For those looking for a guided tour of the area, Cindy Buis is your best option. She gives fully guided arts and culture, garden and sightseeing tours, either starting in Vancouver or from the ferry dock at Langdale. She knows everything about everything, including identifying local trees, the geography of the beaches and glaciers and the history of the area – she can tailor a tour exactly to your interests, whether it's pottery, fibre arts or beachcombing. Perhaps plan a tour around one of the dozens of festivals held every year in Gibsons. Among those coming up are the Gibsons Jazz Festival, June 10-12 this year, the Howe Sound outrigger races July 8-10 or the Sea Cavalcade July 22-24.

For the more energetic, Mount Elphinstone, just a few kilometres from Gibsons Landing, offers trails for biking and hiking. You can also join diving excursions or rent kayaks just about anywhere along the coast.

"We've been everywhere and this is the greatest place on Earth," said Donna Kosmuk, co-owner of Ocean Breezes Bed and Breakfast. She and her husband, Ralph, an architect, moved to Gibsons permanently from Alberta this year.

Ferries leave Horseshoe Bay for Langdale every couple of hours. For more information, visit www.bcferries.bc.ca.

Daffodowndilly Gallery: 426 Marine Dr. 604-886-9584.

Gaia's Fair Trade: 287 Gower Point Rd. 604-886-7117.

Gift of the Eagle gallery: visit www.giftoftheeagle.com, call 604-886-4899.

Ocean Breezes Bed and Breakfast: visit www.oceanbreezes.ca, call 604-886-7105.

Peggy Sue: 280 Gower Point Road. 604-886-3818.

Sunshine Coast Tours: visit www.artworkstours.ca, call 604-886-1200.

Visit the Gibsons website, www.gibsons.ca, for more information about the area.

Baila Lazarus is a freelance writer, photographer and illus- trator living in Vancouver.

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