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June 28, 2002

Financial future not bright

Resolve keeps Israelis going but support needed from tourists.
BAILA LAZARUS EDITOR

Israel
Sarah Altman sits on a bench in the shade of a tree near Tel-Aviv's Carmel Market. She is not unaware that this locale has been a favorite target for suicide bombers in the past year and a half due to the abundance of shoppers and pedestrians. But she is far enough away from the crowds that she feels safe. Besides, she already did her shopping – in the morning, when crowds were fewer.

Altman, who has lived in Tel-Aviv for 42 years, has changed her shopping habits but relatively little else. Her life still continues as it has every morning, despite a sadness she feels about the tenuous situation.

"Because soldiers and children are killed, there is low morale," she lamented. "But life here is good."

The only real difference she sees in her immediate surroundings is that deals are to be had everywhere.

"People are giving away things, so cheap, because no one is buying," she said. Indeed, shops on nearby Nahalat Binyamin, normally swarming with lunchtime shoppers, garner little attention.

This scenario repeats itself in the shuk – the Arab market – in the Old City of Jerusalem. While hawkers have always badgered tourists to look at their dishes, rugs, jewellery and other gifts, the pestering has turned into pleas.

"I will have to close my shop soon," said one vendor.

"Offer any price, any price," said another.

Their statements are not hyperbole. Wool carpets, for example, that would have fetched hundreds of dollars in "normal" years, can be had for under $100.
And while some tourists can still be seen making their way through the narrow streets, they are few and far between and nowhere near the numbers one would expect to see in the high season.

The irony is that the Old City may be one of the safest places to be. Because of high security and fewer crowds, possibly, there has not been a major incident there since the rock-throwing which took place on the Temple Mount more than a year and a half ago.

Just a kilometre or so away, in the Giv'at Oren district of Jerusalem, student Jay Wohlgelernter lives in an apartment with a few friends. He made aliyah to Israel two years ago and has not regretted his decision. After setting up a table for Saturday night dinner on a rooftop patio, Wohlgelernter pointed out the cities of Bethlehem and Gilo in the distance. He could hear the gunfire that took place in these areas in the last few months, but said he did not feel unsafe because of it.
Though his home is located just a few blocks from the Moment Café, where a suicide bomber killed 11 Israelis in March, the impact of the violence on him has been less than one might think.

"Right after a bomb goes off, people don't go out," he shrugged. "But after a while, you don't think about it."

Wohlgelernter's words were borne out by scenes of restaurant-goers at Sbarro's Pizza. The eatery was the target of a suicide bomber last August but was rebuilt a month later.

The management of the restaurant said about the reconstruction, "The Jerusalem Sbarro branch has a symbolic significance that goes beyond the commercial aspect, and we will do everything to rebuild the branch." Renovations cost an estimated $470,000 US.

Although a certain level of complacency does take hold of many residents in Jerusalem, there is no doubt that their patterns of behavior have changed. Wohlgelernter and his friends said that people are attending more parties at private homes, rather than going out to clubs; Ben Yehuda Street is no longer a hang-out for them, at least not on a Saturday night, as it used to be; and they do keep a watchful eye out for people on the street around them.

A plea for tourists

Though residents of Jeru-salem and Tel-Aviv have adjusted their lives to account for the possibility of a terrorist attack, the fact that they have been able to do so has not impacted on tourists enough to make them feel comfortable about coming to the region.

The images many people have of Jerusalem, for example, are those that they see in the media of events actually taking place in areas that are hours away. As pictures of tanks rolling into Bethlehem or Jenin or Tukarm make the news, the entire state of Israel is perceived as a war-torn country.

But this is not Yugoslavia in the 1990s. Incidents that do take place, such as a bombing at a restaurant, leave their mark on the victims and their families, but Israelis refuse to react as if their whole world is being destroyed; and refuse to allow Palestinian terrorists to determine how they will live their lives. Within 24 or 48 hours of an attack, the streets are back to normal and virtually no evidence of any violence can seen.

"People must come and see for themselves that people are living their lives," said Ofir Gendelman a spokesperson for the Israeli Ministry of Foreign Affairs. "This is why tourism is important – on the morale side, as well as on an economic side."

Tsion Ben-David, director of North American Operations for the Israel Ministry of Tourism, emphasized how coming to Israel can make an even bigger difference than making another donation.

"We will not need your donations if we have, as in normal years, another million Jews visiting Israel because more than 120,000 families are making their living from tourism," said Ben-David. "Every 12 tourists is a salary for a newcomer from Russia or Ethiopia."

Back in the Old City of Jerusalem, Rabbi Ya'akov Moshe Schlass of the Lechaim Institute is pensive about the meaning of Israel in the lives of Jews worldwide.

"Israel is not the past, not the future, it's the perfect present tense," he said. "It's the place to come to recharge spiritual batteries.

"Every Jew who comes here, comes to rectify the bad-mouthing of the spies," he said, referring to chapter 13 in Numbers where scouts sent to explore Israel come back with poor reports. Schlass warned that if Jews are not willing to show solidarity with Israelis by visiting the state, the same threat that endangers Israel may, some time in the future, come back to haunt them.

"If [tourists] don't come here, it'll come to them," the rabbi said.

Baila Lazarus has just recently returned from a press trip sponsored by the Israel Government Tourist Office.

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