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July 13, 2007

Elegant dining on the water

Steveston's newest restaurant serves up a variety of fish and fowl.
LEANNE JACOBSEN

Reflections Gastronomie
#104-3900 Bayview St.,
Richmond. 604-241-3005.


The newest culinary addition to the Steveston area of Richmond is Reflections Gastronomie. Located on the waterfront in the heart of Steveston, this European bistro-style restaurant focuses on fresh local and, where possible, organic ingredients, prepared with a concentration on flavor and health.

The bustling Steveston waterfront is showcased from both levels through floor-to-ceiling windows. The decor is minimalist but comfortable and the patios are large. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday. The menu is varied, with a special nod to Sunday brunch which, at $40 per person, is a little pricey. However, it includes not only the traditional cold plate buffet fare, but omelette and crêpe stations and fresh Belgian waffles.

High tea, which is served on Saturdays at 2 p.m., features three tiers of afternoon delights, including petit fours, honey coffee cake, fresh baked scones with Devon cream and jams and finger sandwiches with cheese, figs and prosciutto, chicken foie gras and glazed shallots ($30).

Owners Marat and Ella Dreyshner have taken their slogan, "The Art of Good Food," and delivered it on several levels, including presentation, flavor and innovation. My guest and I both started with appetizers and here, the presentation was superb. I had the Swiss-style salmon carpaccio topped with watercress ($12). Colorful, with a hint of citrus in the finishing sauce, it was ample for two and we ended up sharing it. We also shared the orange brandy asparagus, which was perfectly steamed and complimented by the fruity sauce ($6). I ordered the catch of the day, a generously portioned steelhead trout, which arrived cooked to perfection and served with grilled vegetables and dollar potatoes ($16). Staying with the fish theme, my guest ordered the pesto marinated wild salmon, wrapped in a phyllo pastry crust and accompanied by organic greens ($12). We finished with dessert: a taste each of the exquisitely flavored saffron creme brûlé ($8) and the bread pudding with home-made vanilla ice cream ($6).

There are a variety of salads available, including a poached pear with fig balsamic reduction, blue cheese, roasted beets and endive in a Champagne vinaigrette ($12) and a signature Caesar salad, prepared at your table for a minimum of four people ($12 per person). Another specialty is the thin crust Italian pizza, in a choice of cheese, mushroom, bocconcini and basil or shrimp, tomato and garlic ($14).

The menu does not change too substantially at dinner, athough the prices do. There is additionally a rack of lamb chasseur stuffed with feta and roasted garlic and finished with a rich brown mushroom sauce ($38), cocoa and red wine braised short ribs ($35), Cornish game hen with green grapes, accompanied by peach preserve and balsamic in a red wine reduction ($26), a bouillabaisse ($30) and a fresh wild game entrée that changes weekly (market price). The wine list is a little sparse, but does feature several decent British Columbia wines by the bottle and the glass.

Reflecting back upon our lunch, I would give this a 3.5 out of 5 on the Nosh Metre.

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