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July 12, 2002
Tuscany in the Okanagan
The Kettle Valley trail is a great way to see the sites.
MICHELLE DODEK SPECIAL TO THE JEWISH BULLETIN
Dramatic hillsides with rows and rows of grape vines, winding hillside
roads and roasting hot weather take me back to the bike ride I took
in Tuscany, outside of Florence. Fortunately, there is no need to
brave airport line ups and security hassles, language barriers or
crazy Italian drivers to partially recreate the magic of the Tuscan
countryside. There is a place in our very own British Columbia that
offers an opportunity to cycle through a landscape that will evoke
memories of Europe, as well as pride in the diversity of our province:
the Kettle Valley Railway.
On the Canada Day long weekend, my husband and I endeavored our
first unguided bike trip. We took it easy. Cycling from Penticton
to Oliver the first day and on to Osoyoos the second day required
a total of only 50 kilometres of riding during the two days, which
is manageable for even a very inexperienced cyclist. The terrain
is primarily flat or gently rolling hills and the trail is on the
route where a railway used to run north-south through the Okanagan
Valley. A book called Cycling the Kettle Valley Railway describes
and explains the route with maps and exact distances so the trip
is fairly easily self-guided.
The southern portion we chose to ride took us through the so-called
Desert Wine Country. It is this section of the old railway that
is reminiscent of the Chianti region of Italy. The vineyards and
orchards stretch on, rising above the chain of sparkling lakes up
onto the hillsides, inviting visitors to pick fruit and taste wine.
The presence of 12 wineries in the Oliver area alone is tempting.
All wineries are open for tasting and many have tours. Tinhorn Creek
Vineyards has a self-guided tour around a miniature vineyard with
explanations of viniculture that will make you feel like a wine
aficionado. Grapes are surpassing the supremacy of the Okanagan
apple and it certainly makes for a great vacation.
Throughout the valley are scattered fascinating bed and breakfast
guesthouses as well. All accessible by bike, with secure sheds in
which to lock up, families open their homes to travellers and give
old-fashioned hospitality.
Our first accommodation in Penticton, Riordan House, packed us a
delicious vegetarian lunch for our ride that day. Lindale Farm Guest
House in Oliver included a wonderful tour of their vineyard surrounding
the house and an invitation to work in the vineyard too. Their full
breakfast featured juice, syrup and jelly made from last year's
harvest. In Osoyoos we stayed in the middle of a mixed fruit orchard
and picked cherries to take home as a special treat.
Cycling through the countryside lets you explore the smells, sounds,
sights and feelings of the area. Combining it with stays at bed
and breakfasts and vineyard visits along the way gives a human element
to the landscape. For more information on the Kettle Valley Railway
or tourism in the Okanagan, visit www.telusplanet.net/~dan/kvr.html.
Michelle Dodek is a freelance writer living in Vancouver.
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