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Feb. 8, 2008
A transformative trip
Students help Ghanaians build community centre.
DANIEL MIKELBERG
"Adonai b'makom hazeh v'anochi lo yadat" – "God is in this place and I did not know it." (Genesis 28:16)
I must admit that not much that I had previously experienced in my 28 years in Canada, the United States or Israel prepared me for my recent visit to western Africa. On Jan. 16, 2008, I set out on a journey to Ghana, returning 10 days later with a totally new perspective on life – acutely aware of the hardships facing the developing world, attuned to the need for global justice, awestruck by the power of hope, kindness and trust.
Along with 25 rabbinical students from seminaries across North America, I participated in an American Jewish World Service humanitarian mission to the rural community of Gbi Atabu (near Ho Hoe in the Upper Volta region of Ghana). Our task was to assist the locals in building a community centre. We worked alongside our new friends, mixing concrete, carrying materials, constructing bricks and paving a floor. This was also a week of building relationships, sharing stories and identifying commonalities. Representing various cultures, denominations and lands, we walked hand in hand, constructing, brick by brick a much needed gathering place.
One day, early in our visit, I met a local gentleman named Moses. At first, only the things that separated us were apparent. Moses has never left his hometown of Gbi Atabu. He spoke only broken English. He was curious as to who I was and how I ended up in his community. He proudly taught me some Ewe terms: mau wezo, you are welcome; akpe, thank you; and honlo, friend. I asked Moses if he was named after someone special, perhaps his father or grandfather. Moses responded, "Oh no, I am named after a great man who stood at the shore of the seas as he travelled to the holy land of Israel."
I admitted that I was familiar with stories of that man and that he was a hero in my faith, too. Clearly, there wasn't so much that separated us after all.
I also befriended a teen named Brosback. Brosback carried a great burden on his shoulders. As the eldest of three siblings, he served as the designated caregiver in his family. He shared with me that Ghana has many problems – AIDS, poverty and corruption, among others. They are overwhelming problems to be dealt with by such a young man. In fact, three per cent of the population of Ghana has AIDS, many with no access to treatment, and 45 per cent of the population live on less than a dollar a day.
Celebrating its 50th year of independence, Ghana still struggles to find a democratic path. And yet, Brosback was hopeful for the future. One of the most holy moments of this visit was watching Brosback's church choir perform. The traditional melodies, the incredible spirit and the great enthusiasm – the music formed a truly inspirational sukkah of peace.
On the last day of our travels, we visited a Liberian displacement camp. Ghana plays host to 42,000 Liberian refugees who have found themselves homeless, as neighboring Liberia encounters ongoing domestic strife. The camp – with open sewers and minimal clean water access – is one of the most densely populated regions in the world. The residents are taught that everyone must fend for him/herself. Desperate for money, many of the women are forced to sell their bodies for sex. Encountering such sorrow and pain up front, I couldn't help but wonder what it must have been like for many of our relatives who spent time in displacement camps in Eastern Europe after the Holocaust. While it was a different time and a different land, this Ghanaian story was also my story.
This could be my family and, just as my family has found blessing, so too must I consider these and other disadvantaged citizens of the world and hope they will too.
It has been difficult transitioning back to my life in North America. This trip has made me acutely aware of my responsibilities as a Jew and as a world citizen. At the moment, our world is very fractured and it is easy to drown in the hardships that are everywhere. But there is power in the human connection. We can, each one of us working together, make a difference. We need to aspire towards a better tomorrow.
The Ghanaian people were one of the kindest and welcoming people that I have ever met. In my short time there, they taught my fellow volunteers and me so much. As we prepared for our departure, I was taught one more Ewe phrase: Mau Neira, May God bless you. Since returning, I now hold in my prayers my new friends in Ghana. Moses, Brosback and to all those in need: Mau Neira. May we together find a path to stand hand in hand, healing the world, spreading and sharing blessings for all.
Daniel Mikelberg grew up in Vancouver. He is presently completing his fifth and final year as a rabbinic student at Hebrew Union College-Jewish Institute of Religion in Los Angeles, Calif.
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