The pure pleasures of Rome

MASADA SIEGEL

I started screaming right in the middle of an exquisite Sunday brunch at the Rome Hilton Cavalieri (romecavalieri.com). What once was a large glass of red wine was now running down my shirt and dripping onto my jeans. The pristine white tablecloth now splattered with red drops, the outstanding dessert, which I had so excitedly photographed a moment earlier, was turning into a soggy plate of wine-drenched mess.

It was not an Italian lovers’ spat that had me making a racket. Instead, my friend, Elena, had tripped over a tablecloth that moments earlier she had reported to the wait staff as too long and unsafe. I laughed, as she turned back to me and said, “Oh, this would definitely be a scene right out of the movies! Can’t you just see me tripping and flying across the gorgeous white floor?”

Elena works in film in Italy’s capital city, so, to her, nothing is impossible; her world is filled with excitement. I just was not expecting to be drenched in the drama.

Now soaked, I started laughing all over again. Luckily, I had a spa treatment booked at the Cavalieri Grand Spa. One delectable way to relive ancient Roman rituals of relaxation and rejuvenation, this hotel spa is rated one of the top in Europe, offering a host of indulgent treatments, as well as Turkish baths and four swimming pools.

Rome is romantic, period. The city’s level of romance means that you feel it whether you travel solo, with friends or with a special someone. The Roman experience is second to none. There are the typical places to visit: the Colesseum, the Forum, Vatican City, the Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. While these are must-see places, there are hidden gems waiting to be discovered, and having a local like Elena give me a little extra insight was priceless. The options for discovery are many, especially if you like to wander, there is magic at every corner.

The first Jews arrived in Rome in 161 BCE. They were ambassadors of Judah Maccabee and came to ask for Roman protection against King Antiochus IV. Soon, many Jews decided to move to Rome, as it was a major centre for trade. Because the Temple was still in existence, Jews brought with them rituals and traditions that were used in Jerusalem, and many settled in an area called Trastevere.

Today, Trastevere is known for its winding cobblestone streets, a haven for the photographically inclined. It is filled with a plethora of bars and restaurants. Make sure to stop into any of the local bakeries, which are not hard to find. Simply follow your nose, as just outside the shops, the scents are intoxicating and inviting.

Trastevere is a 10-minute walk from the Great Synagogue and the Jewish museum it houses. It was rebuilt in 1904 and, in a city filled with remarkable buildings and architecture, the synagogue claims a unique design. It boasts an aluminum square dome, making it very easy to recognize from a distance.

The Jewish museum is located inside the synagogue, and the museum holds and exhibits the objects of the five previous synagogues. An interesting historical fact is that, originally, Roman synagogues did not have mezuzot affixed to their entrances, as they were built prior to the destruction of the Temple in Jerusalem.

This synagogue has had its shared of good and bad times. After a Simchat Torah celebration in 1982, there was a terrorist attack in which 45 people were injured and a two-year-old was killed. The Italian government implemented security after this attack, and it is still in place today.

On a lighter note, in 1986, Pope John Paul II visited the Great Synagogue to say prayers with the chief rabbi of Rome. This event marked the first-known visit by a pope to a synagogue since the early history of the Roman Catholic Church.

Just a step away from the Great Synagogue, you will find the heart of the old Jewish ghetto, filled with shops and restaurants. Saray Judaica is a favorite of mine; be sure to check out the mezuzot made of Venetian glass, which are dazzling.

Also, while fabulous food in Italy is nothing surprising, the kosher Taverna del Ghetto seems to have outdone itself in excellence. Even the locals, i.e. Elena and her crowd, couldn’t stop raving about the food, which they deemed “utterly delicious.” Be sure to indulge in the (fried, yum!) Jewish artichoke, the Carcilfi alla qiudia, and certainly try the meat ravioli. Kosher wine at its finest is found here, too. Make sure to save room for the mouthwatering (pareve) desserts.

One of the most interesting shops in Trastevere is at 34 Vicolo del Cedro, where the artist Mohssen Kasirossafar has a musical instrument shop. Entering his store is like going back in time. He carves his own lutes, and a variety of guitar-like instruments. The shop is filled with his extraordinary instruments, as well as his modern photographs of Rome, which are breathtaking.

One of the most lovely hotels in Rome is the Hotel Hassler (hotelhasslerroma.com). It overlooks the Spanish Steps and its opulence seduces the senses. Many of the suites boast rooms with a view and their décor inspires romance, which comes as no surprise in one of the most sensual cities in the world.

Perhaps one of the best places to please your palate is by having dinner at the top of the Hassler, at Imàgo. Elena and I went at sunset so we could watch nature paint the Roman sky in pink, while enjoying a glass of red wine.

The restaurant is Michelin rated and the food prepared by chef Francesco Apreda is as breathtaking as the views, which your waiter is more than happy to point out to you from your table. The chef’s creativity is endless; we tried a tasting menu, which was filled with outrageously tasty dishes, such as potato and beetroot gnocchi, sparkling wine risotto and mouthwatering sake-glazed black cod. The attention to detail is superb; we also devoured the bread, dipping pieces in various salts from places far and wide, including the Himalayas and Hawaii. Everything was bursting with flavor and towards the end of the meal, Elena smiled and said, “This has to be one of the finest places in all of Rome.”

Another outstanding hotel is the Westin Excelsior (starwoodhotels.com/westin), which offers Italian treats of another variety. The rooms are open and spacious, and the décor is palatial, with ornate curtains and sumptuous decorative touches and, most importantly, extremely comfortable beds.

The Excelsior is located right next to American embassy. (I could see the embassy’s beautiful rooftop garden from my room.) It’s on a street filled with fantastic shopping, and it also happens to be in the neighborhood of the Borghese Gardens.

An interesting way to see the gardens is on horseback, an option offered by nearby stables. Villa Borghese is one of the largest public parks in Rome and it contains museums, a theatre, a lake, a winter ice-skating rink, as well as numerous fountains. It boasts magnificent views of Rome, both in the garden and in the Borghese Gallery. The gallery is spectacular in terms of its décor and the fabulous art collection inside, including works by Bernini, Caravaggio, Titan and Raphael.

One of the most unusual places I found in Rome, however, is Palazzo Valentini. I would not have found it but for a lovely Canadian couple I met walking down the street, who not only mentioned it to me, but walked 15 minutes out of their way to take me there.

Palazzo Valentini is a true treasure. It is comprised of two patrician villas, which together measure about 20,000 square feet, that were unearthed and brought to life through an on-site multimedia reconstruction that takes visitors back to the heart of ancient Roman life. The walls, rooms, mosaics, baths, salons, decor, kitchens and furniture are all recreated in a journey through time, mixing ancient with modern technology. In this multimedia exhibit, where antiquity meets innovation, visitors walk in the path of the ancient Romans.

One room, however, brought me back to the future. It contained a private thermal bath area and, as we walked over an immense glass floor, I was brought full circle back to the Cavalieri Grand Spa. In both ancient and modern Rome, enjoying the best is a way of life, whether with wine or water, sometime a refreshing bath of both is the happiest way to go! Happy travels!

Masada Siegel is the author of Window Dressing, which can be found on amazon.ca. Follow her on Twitter at MasadaSiegel.

^TOP