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December 3, 2004
The jelly doughnut goes global
Some wonder why this treat has become associated with Chanukah.
DANIEL ROGOV ISRAEL PRESS SERVICE
The eight-day holiday of Chanukah, happily one of the easiest-going
of all of the Jewish holidays, starts this year on the evening of
Dec. 7. The culinary delight most often associated with the celebration
of the holiday is the treat known in Hebrew as sufganiya and in
English as the jelly doughnut. Despite its vast popularity, not
too many people know the history of this delectable confection.
Written by an anonymous baker in Nuremberg in 1485, Kuchenmeisterei
(Cooking Mastery) was a treatise on mastering the art of cake-making.
Although the book contained little that was considered daring, the
author included one recipe so radical that all of Europe became
excited. It is to this unknown genius that the world owes an enormous
debt, for he had invented the jelly doughnut.
By the 16th century, nearly every European nation had evolved its
own form of the doughnut, and these simple treats invariably became
associated with holidays.
In France, without jelly, they are known as beignets and are especially
popular during the season of Christmas. Starting about a month before
the holiday, beignets may be purchased from hundreds of shops in
virtually every city and hamlet that sell them fresh and piping
hot and sprinkled over with confectioners' sugar.
In Spain, where they are filled with custard and called bartolilos,
they are most enjoyed on the evenings of Oct. 30 (marking All-Saint's
Eve) and Dec. 31 (to celebrate the onset of the New Year).
In Germany, filled with sweet jellies, these doughnuts are called
Bismarken after the illustrious Prussian statesman Prince Otto Edward
Leopold von Bismark, of whom Berliners have always been particularly
proud. Interestingly enough, even though these are considered traditional
fare during Fasching or Shrove Tuesday, there is no historical evidence
that Bismark, who did not like sweets, ever tasted them.
Because there is neither an historic nor religious connection between
Judaism and the jelly doughnut, some wonder precisely why this treat
has become associated with Chanukah. Simple enough - eating this
deep-fried delicacy commemorates the miracle of the oil. In fact,
so omnipresent are doughnuts during the holiday season that they
are on sale at every neighborhood grocery store, supermarket, kiosk,
café and espresso bar in the country.
TRADITIONAL SUFGANIYOT
2 envelopes (30 grams) dry yeast
4 cups flour
1/2 cup sugar
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 egg, beaten lightly
3/4 tsp salt
apricot, strawberry or raspberry jam for filling
confectioners' sugar as required
oil for deep frying
Combine the yeast and two tablespoons each of the flour, sugar and
warm water. Cover with a towel and let stand until the mixture rises.
In a separate mixing bowl, combine the remaining flour and sugar
with the oil, egg and salt. Mix well and add one cup warm water
and the yeast mixture. Stir until the batter is smooth and firm.
Cover the batter with a towel and set aside to rise until doubled
in bulk (about 30 minutes).
After the batter has risen, turn it onto a well-floured board. Beat
down the dough, cover with a damp towel and let rise again. Cover
the mixture with a towel and flatten by hand. Using an inverted
wine glass (or other similar in size) punch out individual pieces
from the dough. Cover these and allow to rise once again, for about
a half hour.
Drop the individual pieces into a large pot containing very hot
deep oil and fry until both sides are brown, turning the doughnuts
occasionally as they fry. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain
on absorbent towelling. Using a cake decorator filled with jam,
fill the inside of each doughnut. Sprinkle with confectioners' sugar.
Serve hot or at room temperature.
Yields about 24 sufganiyot.
BARTOLILOS (SPAIN)
1/2 cup vegetable oil
peel of 1/2 lemon
1/2 cup white wine
2 cups flour
pinch or two of salt
custard filling (see following recipe)
confectioners' sugar and cinnamon for dusting
oil for frying
In a small skillet, heat together, over high heat, the oil and lemon
peel until the peel turns black. Discard the peel and let the oil
cool. Transfer the oil to a mixing bowl and add the wine, flour
and salt. Lightly knead and work the dough into a ball. Wrap in
a towel and let stand for 30 minutes. While the dough is standing,
prepare the custard mixture.
Roll out the dough on a floured board until it is about one-eighth
inch thick and cut the dough into triangles three by three by two
inches. Let the triangles sit, uncovered, for 30 minutes. On half
the triangles place one teaspoon of custard down the middle. Cover
with the remaining triangles and seal the edges by pressing with
a fork. In medium-hot oil less than one-inch deep, fry the triangles
until golden on both sides. Drain on paper towelling and dust first
with confectioners' sugar and then with cinnamon. Yields about 20
pastries.
Custard Filling for Bartolilos
2 cups milk
whole peel of 1 lemon
6 egg yolks
1 cup each sugar and flour
4 tsp butter
In a saucepan, combine the milk and lemon peel. Bring to the boiling
point and immediately reduce the heat. Simmer gently for 10 minutes
and then discard the lemon peel.
Place the egg yolks in a separate saucepan and gradually stir in
the sugar. With a wire whisk, beat until the mixture is pale yellow.
Beat in the flour and gradually add the hot milk. Cook over medium
heat, stirring constantly until the mixture is thickened and smooth.
Remove from heat and stir in the butter until melted and the mixture
is uniform throughout. Cool, stirring occasionally. Yields about
one and one quarter cups.
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