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March 26, 2010
Tasty, simple Pesach meals
Pam Reiss has a new cookbook for chefs of varying skill levels.
CYNTHIA RAMSAY
The introduction to Pam Reiss’ new cookbook, Passover: A Kosher Collection, begins, “Passover cooking can be stressful.” This is a fact, but Reiss’ recipes can relieve some of the pressure. For the uninitiated, she offers Pesach basics, like matza ball soup and kugel. For veterans, she offers more original additions to the meal, like osso bucco and vegetable moussaka.
While Reiss lists a few sample menus (including drinks) – for the seder, a holiday brunch, cocktail party and barbecue – I tried a few random recipes at home. They all turned out really well, once I took into account that my oven cooks hotter than most, and that Reiss’ recipes are generous. For instance, the macaroon recipe was estimated to make about 15 macaroons and, though I halved it, I ended up with 12. This wasn’t a big problem, of course, as I have many plastic containers and a large freezer, but you might want to keep that in mind as you contemplate your quantities.
FISH EN PAPILLOTE
This recipe is for a single serving and is more of a method than a recipe. Use the guidelines here to make as many servings as you need. Can be dairy or parve.
1/2 cup thinly sliced vegetables (leeks, zucchini, carrots, mushrooms, grape tomatoes, par-boiled potatoes, etc.)
salt and pepper
6 oz. fish fillets (halibut, salmon, cod, etc.)
1 tsp. butter (substitute with olive oil for parve)
1 tbsp. dry white wine
assorted herbs, garlic, spices, lemon slices
Preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
Place a rectangle of aluminum foil (about 18 by 12 inches) on a work surface, then place a piece of parchment paper that’s one-inch smaller than the foil on all sides, centred, on top of the foil.
Arrange a mixture of vegetables (about a half cup) about two inches from the bottom edge of the parchment.
Sprinkle the vegetables with salt and pepper. Place a fish fillet on top of the vegetables and season with salt and pepper.
Place one teaspoon of butter or olive oil on top of the fish and pour one tablespoon of wine over.
You can leave it at that or add some fresh herbs, spices, lemon slices or any other seasonings you like.
Fold the parchment paper and aluminum foil in half towards you so that the edges of the top half line up with the edges of the bottom half. Fold the bottom edge of the foil up twice to seal the layers of foil and parchment together, then fold each of the sides over twice, making sure the packet is completely sealed.
Place on a baking sheet and bake for 13-18 minutes, depending on the type and thickness of the fish. It’s ready when the fish is just cooked through.
Open the package, being careful of the steam. Transfer to a plate and eat immediately.
CAULIFLOWER, LEEK AND ZUCCHINI KUGEL
Serves 10-12, parve
2 lbs. cauliflower (1 large), sliced 1/2-inch thick
4 tbsp. olive oil, divided
2 tsp. salt, divided
3/4 tsp. black pepper, divided
1 lb. leeks, white part only, thinly sliced
1 lb. zucchini, trimmed and shredded
1 1/2 cups matza meal
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
Preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit and line a baking tray with parchment paper.
Put all of the sliced cauliflower into a large mixing bowl, drizzle two tablespoons of olive oil, half a teaspoon salt and a quarter teaspoon pepper over it, and toss with your hands until all of the cauliflower is coated. Transfer the cauliflower to the baking tray and spread it out in a single layer.
Roast the cauliflower for approximately 25 minutes, remove from the oven and use a spatula to turn it all over. Roast another 25-30 minutes (or less), until the cauliflower is soft and lightly browned, then transfer it to a large mixing bowl and mash it, eliminating all large chunks.
Let the cauliflower cool and reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.
While the cauliflower is in the oven, cook the leeks. Heat two tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat in a large frying pan. Add the leeks and cook, stirring, until soft. Transfer them to the mixing bowl with the cauliflower.
When the vegetables are cooled, add the zucchini and matza meal, and mix. Add the remaining 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt, half teaspoon of pepper and the eggs and mix.
Pour the batter into an eight-by- 11-inch baking dish that’s been sprayed or brushed with oil. Bake for 75 minutes or until the top is golden brown and the middle of the kugel is firm when you lightly press it.
Let the kugel rest for at least 20 minutes before cutting.
GREEK STUFFED MUSHROOM CAPS
Makes 20. Dairy, but can be made parve if you leave the feta out and add a splash of lemon juice to replace the tangy note that the feta adds to the mushrooms.
20 large button or crimini mushrooms
5 oz. (1 small) yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
3 tbsp. olive oil
3 large garlic cloves, crushed
pinch of red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. dried oregano
3 cups spinach leaves, roughly chopped
1 cup feta cheese, crumbled (substitute with lemon juice for parve)
Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.
Wash the mushrooms and let them dry. Remove the stems from the mushroom caps and finely chop the stems.
For the stuffing: over medium heat, sauté the onions and chopped mushroom stems in olive oil until they’ve started to wilt. Add the garlic, red pepper flakes, salt and oregano and cook another minute, stirring continuously.
Add the spinach and sauté until wilted. Remove from the heat and cool. Add the feta and mix through.
Divide the stuffing among the mushroom caps, heaping it up. Place the stuffed mushrooms onto a baking sheet and bake for 30-40 minutes, or until the cheese has browned and the mushrooms are cooked.
MACAROONS
Makes about 15 (or more) and is parve. To make chocolate macaroons, use the cocoa; to make orange ones, use the zest. To make vanilla, leave out both the cocoa and zest, and increase the vanilla to one teaspoon.
1/4 salt
1 cup sugar
3 tbsp. cocoa or 1 tbsp. orange zest
3 cups unsweetened shredded coconut
1/2 tsp. vanilla
4 large egg whites
Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
Mix the salt, sugar, cocoa or orange zest (or neither) and coconut together. Add the vanilla and egg whites and mix well.
Spoon drops of about three tablespoons each of batter onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Place in the oven and bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the macaroons are no longer glossy. Remove from the oven and cool.
These can be stored in an air-tight container for up to one week, and they freeze well.
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