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June 16, 2006
History, calm and character
Hastings House Country Estate lives up to its name and reputation.
BAILA LAZARUS
Sitting by the window, having breakfast in the manor building at
Hastings House, gazing out to Ganges Harbor with a warm fire just
a few feet away, sun streaming into the wood-rich dining room and
Vivaldi's "Four Seasons" playing in the background, one
can hardly imagine a more bucolic setting.
It feels as though you've been transported to a lavish estate on
the English countryside straight out of A Room with a View.
And, but for the sea planes that land sporadically, the century
might be the same.
The impression is deceptive. The Manor House, which forms the centre
of Hastings House Country Estate on Salt Spring Island, was built
just under 70 years ago in the form of an 11th-century English manor
by Warren and Barbara Hastings, who moved to Salt Spring from Sussex
in 1937. After the manor house came the post, the barn and the farmhouse,
all of which have rustic exteriors but which now contain cozy, modern
suites. Recently, seven more suites have been built on a hillside
overlooking the estate, bringing the total count to 18, including
one-room "bed-sitting" rooms, two-room deluxe suites and
a three-bedroom private cottage.
Hastings House, which is a member of the renowned Relais & Châteaux
group of hotels, has won numerous awards for its food, accommodations
and service, but perhaps what is most unique about the property
is that it started out as a working farm and maintains farmland
right within its property. In fact, much of the greens used for
salads, and fruits for jams and juice, come from plants and trees
grown right next to guest bedrooms. Guests are invited to stroll
around the heritage fruit orchard, traipse through the flower or
vegetable gardens and get some tips from the on-site gardener. Rub
the curry plant between your fingers and inhale the aroma that gives
the plant its name; or say hello to the Jacob sheep that roam around
the property.
Though located just a few minutes' walk from Ganges, a group of
trees successfully isolates Hastings House to ensure a calm place
to retreat. Relaxation-inducing details include a "wake-up
hamper" with muffins and coffee delivered to your door before
breakfast, afternoon tea served with fresh local cheese, an on-site
spa, fireplaces or wood-burning stoves and soaker tubs.
One of the more enjoyable ways to pass the time is to relax in front
of the large Inglenook fireplace in the manor house and browse through
the estate's history, looking at period photographs of the buildings
and tracing the development of the property. But be aware that as
you become engrossed in the past, the room might start to fill with
visitors who have just parked their boats in Ganges Harbor and have
made the short trek looking for some famous Hastings House food.
The restaurant, with Swiss chef Marcel Kauer, is well known for
its fresh menu, which changes daily, carrying local cheese, wine,
fish and vegetables. Among the excellent offerings are the famous
Salt Spring lamb and melt-in-your-mouth smoked sable fish (also
known as black cod). The carrot/orange bisque, basil spaetzle (a
type of pasta) and citrus couscous were superb, as were the lemon
semifreddo and chocolate ganoche for dessert, but the lentils, unfortunately,
didn't rate as well. Well, what can you do? They're lentils, after
all.
If time permits, some exploration of Salt Spring Island is a must.
The list of activities is endless, including sea kayaking and recently
added whale watching tours; a Saturday arts, crafts and farmers'
market; hiking, fishing, golf and cycling; and visits to the local
wineries, cheese-makers and alpaca farms; not to mention the renowned
artist studios that have made Salt Spring one of the premier arts
and crafts destinations in Canada. The complimentary studio tour
map alone suggests 42 places to visit.
Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, Hastings House Country
Estate Hotel and Restaurant is located next to the town of Ganges
on Salt Spring Island. Access to nearby Fulford Harbor is by B.C.
Ferries. Access to Ganges Harbor by Seair, Harbor Air or Salt Spring
Air, about 30 minutes from Richmond's South Terminal. Call 1-800-661-9255,
e-mail [email protected]
or visit www.hastingshouse.com.
Baila Lazarus is a freelance writer, photographer and
illustrator living in Vancouver. Her work can be seen at www.orchiddesigns.net.
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