Dancing the night away in Tel Aviv

DONNA YUEN

Thursday night is the night to party in Tel Aviv, and my nightlife guide, Doron, plans to see to it that we do just that! We start our bar hopping evening at Nanuchka, a Georgian restaurant-bar with unique décor popular with the locals. Its terra-cotta walls are adorned with large mirrors and oil paintings; garish chandeliers dangle from the ceiling providing a warm welcoming glow. While the more relaxed crowd hangs out in the restaurant area, the patrons in the bar area seem ready to jump up and dance all night long. I am told that the place really gets going after midnight, like most places in Tel Aviv, where the bar scene generally runs until the last patron leaves. Nanuchka is located on Lillienblum Street, which is a popular clubbing area in Tel Aviv. After a few drinks, we are ready to move on to another bar in the party district.

We make our way to Abraxas, a dark, smoky grunge bar with deejayed jazz music. I notice nearly everyone is wearing black as we sit at a small table to people-watch. I ask about the folded paper coasters on the table and my guide tells me that smoking is prohibited indoors, so ashtrays are not placed on the tables. Rather, the patrons use the folded coasters and, when they hear a loud bell ringing, everyone stamps out their cigarettes, as it signals that the inspectors are on their way.

Seeking some fresh air en route to another bar, we stop to join a street party led by a 10-piece band. Drums, horns and saxophones blare into the night as people dance in the square. The atmosphere is lighthearted and relaxed. Bystanders drink cava (a Spanish sparkling wine) straight from the bottle while watching the party from street corners. After an impromptu street dance and a few more bars, Doron is eager to take me to what he calls a "mega bar."

High Windows, known to the locals as Hachalonot Hagevohim, is located in a nondescript building with a huge lineup outside. As I scan the crowd, I see this is where the "beautiful people" go to see and be seen. It is helpful to know someone in order to get in, as patrons stand outside trying to negotiate with the doorman over the loud music. With Doron's connections, we finally make our way into the packed bar. Neon lights dance across the ceiling as the mid-20s to mid-40s crowd pulsates to the music. Throwing your arms in the air, dancing, screaming and laughing is part of the fun here and Doron enthusiastically coaxes me into the crowd to join the party. I soon find myself with my arms in the air, screaming to be heard over the music and laughing at the insanity of it all ... Israelis know how to party.

We finally decide to call it a night and, as Doron leaves, he informs me that tomorrow he will show me the "real" Tel Aviv. We plan to attend a musical event at Dolphinarium Beach. Also known as Drummers Beach, drummers gather here every Friday, in the late afternoon, and play until late into the evening. This community-based event to welcome the weekend is open to everyone. Suitable for all ages, bystanders routinely stop by the free event to watch the drummers, dancers and jugglers perform. Dozens of drummers line up in rows against the colorfully painted wall, beating a variety of drum types from congas to bongos. Dancers add to the festivities, shaking it up with their tambourines. Sometime after sunset, I begin my walk along the beach back to my hotel. The rhythm of the distant drums resonates across the sand in the darkness, the music accompanying me all the way to my hotel. Tel Aviv is known for its nightlife and Israelis are proud of their social scene; while not heavy drinkers, they clearly enjoy socializing and partying. So whether you want to be a bystander or to shake it up, Tel Aviv is the place.

Donna Yuen is a freelance writer based out of Vancouver.

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