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July 1, 2005
An eye on things that glitter
Gemologist sets up shop in Vancouver to provide independent appraisals.
CARLA WOLLACH
Ever wondered how much those diamonds sitting at the back of your
jewelry box are actually worth? Is that a real pearl necklace or
just a plastic knock-off? Have you wanted to get your gems appraised,
but are unsure of who to take them to and, more importantly, who
you can trust? This is when a qualified expert in the area is needed.
Enter Rachel Cohen, a graduate gemologist and accredited jewelry
professional who's also a part of the Jewelry Judge, a network of
independent gemological appraisers.
The Jewelry Judge opened for business in 1989. The network has strict
membership criteria, including training requirements, and prides
itself in providing its customers with "accuracy, consistency
and professionalism of appraisals." There are 14 Jewelry Judge
centres operating across Canada and the United States. Cohen is
the only member in Western Canada.
Cohen was born into the gem industry. Her father, a stone dealer,
helped instil and later foster her passion for gems. She jokes that
as a child, while other kids were playing with marbles, she was
playing with gems.
After working in both retail and wholesale jewelry, Cohen attended
the Gemological Institute in New York City. Upon receiving her graduate
gemological diploma, she moved back to Vancouver and became a member
of the Jewelry Judge. Earlier this year, Cohen opened a downtown
office and now offers gemological services to the public.
Cohen is fully licensed to identify, grade and appraise gems. When
clients visit her office, she involves them in the process and offers
a "while you wait" service. This allows clients to understand
the whole procedure – and the gems never leave their sight.
At completion, Cohen provides official documentation, as well as
a digital photo of the gems.
The major reason why jewelry is appraised is for insurance purposes.
Other reasons include estate assessment and divorce proceedings.
Independent appraisals are now in high demand. Cohen said that an
outside source ensures an ethical estimate. Since she is not affiliated
with any jewelry or gem company, her estimate will reflect the gems'
true market value.
Currently, in Canada, there are no regulations governing the qualification
of gem appraisers. As a result of biased appraisals and conflict
of interest, insurance companies are starting to demand that an
outside source appraise an item to ensure that it is properly valued.
Incorrect appraisals result in insurance premiums that do not reflect
a gem's worth. In the event of lost or stolen jewelry, items that
are undervalued will not be accurately replaced to the owner.
While diamonds are the most common gems that require appraisal or
grading, Cohen also works a lot with rubies, emeralds and sapphires.
She also sees many treasures unique to the country, including Canadian
jade and ammonite.
"I never know what hidden treasure will walk in the door,"
said Cohen. "It's like I'm part of The Antiques Road Show.
The surprise on people's faces when I tell them what their jewelry
is worth is one of the best parts of my job."
Over the past decade, the Canadian diamond industry has been growing
rapidly. Since the discovery of many new mines in the Northwest
Territories, Canada has become one of the top producers and exporters
in the billion dollar industry.
Cohen said she has found her last name has been a plus, working
in her chosen profession. Historically, there has always been a
strong Jewish presence in the diamond industry. While De Beers is
not Jewish, Gassan, Cohen & Co. and Martin Lilienfeld &
Co. are just a few names of Jewish diamond merchants that dominated
the industry in the 19th century.
Jewish influence in the industry has spread across many countries,
spanning northern Africa, Europe and the United States. In the 18th
century, when trades were establishing themselves into organized
groups, Jews were not permitted to be members of guilds. However,
the diamond business was not regulated and, consequently, Jews firmly
established themselves in the industry. Diamonds were a natural
fit for the Jewish people as the gems were easily transportable
and exchangeable, important attributes for a people who were chased
from their homes throughout the ages.
Cohen noted that, in the past, there has always been an element
of elusiveness to jewelry appraisals. She wants to make people feel
more comfortable and provide an honest, accurate and reliable estimate.
Cohen said she wants people to love and appreciate their jewelry
- and feel that their gems are fully protected.
For more information on the Jewelry Judge, visit www.jewelryjudge.net.
Carla Wollach is a Vancouver freelance writer.
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