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July 12, 2002

Enjoy a slow-paced vacation

History and beauty are among the highlights of the San Juan Islands.
KYLE BERGER REPORTER

Folks from eastern Canada often claim that those who live on the West Coast have a more laid-back, easy-going lifestyle.

Meanwhile, people from the West Coast look at the folks living on Vancouver Island and say they live an even more relaxed lifestyle.

In that case, since the people from Vancouver Island often look to the smaller islands around them to take their vacation, you can probably count on that being the most peaceful, stress-free way of life that exists in Canada.

If that's what you're looking for this summer, hop on a ferry or a float plane and spend a few days on one of the smaller islands around the Pacific Northwest.
While many British Columbians are familiar with the more popular Gulf Islands like Salt Spring or Gabriola, where Camp Miriam is located, just a quick ferry ride from either Victoria or Anacortes, Wash., takes you to any one of the magical San Juan Islands, just south of the 49th parallel.

The San Juan Islands are made up of four distinct land masses, each with a unique flavor and one common theme: natural beauty.

The smallest of the islands, Shaw, boasts only a tiny grocery store and a small county park to serve the 233 people who live there. Covering an area of only 7.7 square miles, Shaw Island's ferry landing has been operated by a local order of nuns every day for 20 years.

The next largest of the main islands, Lopez, maintains a friendly flavor as residents often wave at each passing car. Lopez Village is the commercial centre of the island located at the north end of Fisherman's Bay. The island also has several public parks, a handful of restaurants and three overnight camping facilities.

Orcas Island is one of the more popular of the group because of its wide variety of island art, small restaurants and espresso stands featuring locally brewed coffee.

The largest and hilliest of all the San Juan Islands, Orcas features Mount Constitution, from which the view can extend as far away as Mount Rainier, Wash.

San Juan Island, the county's main attraction, is the most northerly island of the bunch. Arrival by ferry leaves you at Friday Harbor, a bustling tourist village filled with restaurants, bike, scooter and kayak rentals, as well as a long line of whale watching tours.

There are many quality bed and breakfasts to choose from for an authentic San Juan Island overnight experience, including the States Inn, so named for its 10 rooms, each themed after a different American state.

Bed and breakfast-style amenities include complimentary beverages available throughout the day, three separate social areas, menus from most of the island's restaurants, a huge cabinet filled with board games and a large dining room for breakfast. The States Inn is located on a farm that features horseback riding, sheep, chickens and alpacas. Information about the inn can be found online at www.statesinn.com.

History buffs can also take a tour of the American and British camps at San Juan Island National Historic Park and learn about the famous Pig War. In the mid-1800s, there was a controversy over where the exact border between the United States and British-controlled Canada was set and both nations claimed control of San Juan Island.

Tensions erupted when an American farmer shot a British-owned pig. This eventually led to the U.S. army and the Royal Canadian Navy on the verge of exchanging fire until both sides agreed to a joint military occupation of the island. Eventually, a German arbitrator awarded San Juan Island to the United States. The event became known as the military confrontation in which the only casualty was a pig.

For more information about the San Juan Islands, go online to www.guidetosanjuans.com or call the San Juan Islands visitor information service at 360-468-3663 or 888-468-3701.

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