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Dec. 9, 2005
Soaking up the sun at Ein Gedi
Kibbutz resort and spa is a Garden of Eden in one of Israel's
most beautiful settings.
SORIYA DANIELS
It is no secret that visitors to Israel are often looking for a
spiritual uplift. One of Israel's best-kept secrets, however, lies
in where they can find it.
Perhaps it's the oxygen-rich air coupled with the high-concentration
of relaxing bromide, or perhaps it's the lure of natural therapeutic
essences in the surroundings of scenic beauty. Simply put, there
is no better place on the globe to unwind and rejuvenate than in
"Ein Gedi country," on the western shore of the Dead Sea,
the lowest spot on the planet, and site of some of the highest concentration
of medically beneficial minerals in the world.
As if that weren't enough, the depth of the region allows for maximum
filtration of the sun's otherwise harmful rays, and the higher air
density naturally lowers blood pressure while supplying the body
with additional oxygen. It's no wonder that King Solomon, touted
as the wisest man ever to have lived, extolled the virtues of Ein
Gedi in his writings, and the prophet Ezekiel described wonderful
visions of Ein Gedi's landscapes.
At the heart of the region sits Kibbutz Ein Gedi and its adjoining
resort hotel, the only populated botanical garden in the world.
We were welcomed to a semi-private narrarated tour by long-time
kibbutz member, Daniella Cohen, a native of Vancouver who made aliyah
four decades ago, in her 20s.
Cohen, who still has family in Vancouver, cheerfully takes visitors
around the kibbutz on her golf cart, showcasing the wonders of the
fragrant botanical garden that spans the entire site, as well as
the cactus garden interspersed within. The botanical garden boasts
a wide range of desert plants from the four corners of the world,
as well as tropical flora from various rain forest regions, grown
with no exceptional cultivation techniques.
Cohen points out a mini-zoo, miniature golf and an Olympic-sized
pool with spectacular views of the Jordanian mountains to the right
and the mountains of Ein Gedi to the left. She does all of this
while simultaneously explaining the history of the kibbutz, which
is nothing less than a modern-day miracle, a man-made oasis amid
a barren desert.
There's something in the air at the kibbutz that makes you feel
like you're floating through the day among scented flora, drifting
about in a magical oasis without a care in the world. The locals
say it's the bromide in the air that has a calming effect. According
to our guide, even people with one lung breathe well in Ein Gedi,
due to the increased circulating oxygen.
We return to the lobby and notice a sign reading, "Unwind and
detach yourself from daily stress with yoga under the bambub tree
at 5 p.m." That must be for the newcomers of the day, because
I can't imagine anyone feeling an ounce of stress here. Our attention
turns to the holistic treatments offered at the resort hotel. Various
Ayurveda treatments are offered for an additional charge, but we
decide to forego those in favor of visiting the Wellness Centre
at Ein Gedi Spa, since admission is free for guests of the hotel.
Only a short ride away by free shuttle service from the kibbutz
lobby, we enter the spa on the shores of the Dead Sea. The spa offers
a range of treatments, from Swedish massage to Thai or Shiatsu therapy,
as well as mud wraps and peeling treatments with Dead Sea salts
and aromatic oils designed to remove dead skin cells and leave skin
silky smooth.
We proceed to survey the grounds of the Ein Gedi Spa, nature's treasure-trove
in the deepest of the Earth's depressions. There were a few tourists
out in the late afternoon by the mud area, and we joined them in
spreading mud over our entire bodies, scalp included, letting it
work its wonders in silence. I noticed that mostly men had an abundance
of mud in their hair, covering their entire scalp. Later, as I read
the literature, this phenomenon was quickly explained: the mud is
known to draw blood circulation up to the scalp and combat balding!
We showered outdoors in hot sulphur spring water and relished the
oily residue that would renew our skin. Floating in the Dead Sea,
warm and buoyant, was an experience unto itself. The exceptionally
high salinity and variety of minerals dissolved in the sea provides
both chemical and mechanical therapeutic action. After rinsing off,
we were treated to the fresh water swimming pool and a late-afternoon
snack near the solarium, where people with various skin disorders
would alternate sunning themselves and bathing in the thermo-mineral
baths or in the Dead Sea to get relief from their ailments. This
treatment is so effective against various auto-immune disorders,
including rheumatoid arthritis, that the Danish government pays
for its citizens to spend one month a year at Kibbutz Ein Gedi and
its spa.
Capturing an experience here would be incomplete without paying
homage to the delectable meals served to the guests at the hotel.
I hardly know where to begin, so I'll start with breakfast, which
is free for all guests. The range of jams alone is mouth-watering:
date jam, tomato jam, apricot jam, pineapple jam, the list goes
on, and none of these jams are processed. There are 10 varieties
of cheeses to suit almost any palate, and an equal choice of yogurts.
There must have been 10 types of salads and fresh vegetable dishes
with a range of dressings to pour on top. Atop the serving tables
was bread galore, french toast, pancakes, eggs, five types of coffee
and 20 types of tea, oatmeal and cereal and every conceivable breakfast
dish in between. It was a food-lover's dream.
The dinner was equally sumptuous, with soups and meat, fish and
poultry dishes and a Viennese table for desert, although anyone
allergic to nuts will find themselves without much of a dessert
selection.
For 20 shekels, the kibbutz offers guided hikes through the nearby
nature reserves of Ein Gedi, known for their natural sweet-water
swimming pools and waterfalls. Witness first-hand where rivers cut
the cliff-side and created canyons and waterfalls which flow down
to the Dead Sea. Flowing from a hill in the centre of the oasis
is the Ein Gedi Spring, which supplies bottled mineral water to
the Israeli population, and runs from the taps of all faucets at
the kibbutz. Close to the spring are several trails which lead to
the Najar scenic overlook, the Dry Canyon and the David Waterfall.
The kibbutz also offers tours to Masada and other local tourist
attractions.
Returning to the guest house at the end of another wonderful day,
I have an overwhelming feeling that here in Ein Gedi country, I've
been given a taste of the Garden of Eden. It was a true delight
for the senses, a retreat for the mind and body, a place where heaven
meets Earth and the rare spot where man lives in perfect harmony
with nature.
For more information about Kibbutz Ein Gedi, call 972-8-659-4220-1
or visit www.ein-gedi.co.il.
Soriya Daniels is a Florida-based freelance writer.
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