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April 25, 2008
Taste some of Israel's finest
Nine establishments have wines at the upcoming festival.
CYNTHIA RAMSAY
Next weekend, British Columbians will be able to taste world-class wines from the Galilee, Shomron, Judean Hills and Negev Desert regions – at the 2008 Israeli Wine Festival, which is being held at the Four Seasons Hotel in Vancouver.
Dalton, Galil Mountain, Golan Heights, Rimon, Tabor, Carmel, Recanati, Ella Valley Vineyards and Yatir wineries will have wines at the festival.
"The importance of such events is great for us (and probably to all Israeli wineries), as the wine industry here is growing rapidly, way beyond wine consumption in Israel. Therefore, we are always seeking new markets and the exposure created by wine events increases the awareness of the quality of the Israeli wine," said Amir Sarig, assistant winemaker at Tabor Winery, in an e-mail interview.
"Tabor Winery is on a very intensive growth plan and, of course, a major part of future sales is aimed at export markets. For a small- or medium-size winery, it is very difficult to take part in the large international wine events: the logistics and the cost are, in most cases, too much to bear. Events such as the Vancouver Israeli Wine Festival give us a chance to gain the exposure without the regular 'headache' involved in many wine events."
Sarig was hesitant to pin down exactly what makes Israeli wine distinct.
"Israeli wine is difficult to stereotype, in my opinion, because of three main reasons:
"1. Israel has a variety of different climate regions and soil types; these create a range of different flavors, causing every wine/winery to be unique in style.
"2. The winemakers in Israel are graduates of universities in Europe/the U.S./Australia and the different approaches in the winemaking techniques enhance the differences in style between wineries and wines.
"3. The wine industry in Israel is relatively 'young' in wine terms, therefore, we are all on a learning curve, the grape growing and winemaking are constantly evolving and so is the 'style' of wines made."
"There are a few things that make winemaking in Israel special," said Na'ama Mualem, winemaker at Dalton Winery, "the first being making kosher wines. Although it's done also in other countries, in Israel, it's the common practice and, therefore, a lot of the knowledge and experience is found in Israel. Another thing is that modern winemaking in Israel is relatively new, maybe 25-30 years old, and it gives a lot of freedom, as there are almost no limiting traditions: the choice of varieties and wine styles are unlimited."
While such freedom no doubt appeals to both Sarig and Mualem, they each pointed to the harvest and the wine blending when asked what inspired them most in the winemaking process.
"Part of the charm in winemaking is the diversity of different seasonal tasks; it is never a routine job," said Sarig. "My favorite is the time around February, when wine from last year's harvest is racked out of the barrels for final tasting and blending. This is when the winemaker's job becomes a form of art – you determine how the wine will look, taste and feel.
"Soon after that, the decisions are made about the wines from the current harvest, also an exciting task, about four months post-harvest is when the wine begins to 'come together' and show its qualities, enabling us to make the initial decisions of its designation."
"There are a few things that are exciting every year," said Mualem. "The first is, of course, the harvest. Although it is the busiest time of year, it is also the most creative, exciting and intense. The other part is the blending – it is almost magical to taste the wines separately and then blended, to see how they enhance each other to make a wine that is greater and better."
And better wine means more sales. Tabor Winery is a prime example, having doubled its production from 2006 to 2007, according to Sarig.
"Our main goal is to continue growing while improving the quality of the wines and introducing new wines," he said. "Such growth takes time: about 250 acres of new vineyards were planted last year and these will first yield in 2010, allowing us to make another growth in production. In the meantime, we are always busy discovering new technology and assimilating state-of-the-art production methods and knowledge at the winery."
Founded and organized by Rochelle Golumbia, the 2008 Israeli Wine Festival is co-sponsored by the Four Seasons, the Canada-Israel Committee, International Cellars Inc., the Ohel Ya'akov Community Kollel and the Jewish Independent and hosted by the Government of Israel Economic Mission to Canada – net proceeds will support the Kollel's Israel education programs.
The festival takes place Sunday, May 4, 5-9 p.m. Tickets are $35 (which includes GST) and are available through Ticketmaster at 604-280-4444 or ticketmaster.ca. For more information, visit www.israeliwinefestival.ca.
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